Return to the Northern Hemisphere April 28
Heretic is back in the Northern Hemisphere, tied to the wharf in Bridgetown, Barbados, after three years in the southern latitudes.
Since leaving St Helena on March 22, 2010, we took five days to complete the 700 mile passage to Ascension. The passage was squally and rainy, but relatively fast; we never lacked for wind. Although we were a little apprehensive at first, Ascension turned out to be an excellent stop. The island is naturally very barren, all red volcanic rock and soil except for the very tip of the highest mountain. It looks surreal, very much like NASA photographs of Mars. The radar installations in the shape of huge golf balls that ring the coast certainly add to this effect. The biggest highlight of our time on Ascension was the nesting green turtles. A few hours after nightfall, when the nearly full moon rose, we watched surprisingly large turtles lumber out of the surf and dig holes to lay their eggs above the high tide line. Even more exciting, however, were the tiny just-hatched turtles running down to the sea. We did one dive from our dinghy and were thrilled to see the clear water and abundance of fish in the shoals of this remote Atlantic island. We visited the US Air Force base two evenings in a row for large, tasty American diner food flown in weekly. Since there are no fresh vegetables grown on the island, the Air Force’s Chef Salad was our only chance for greens.
Our passage from Ascension here to Barbados took 26 days, but was very pleasant overall. We departed Ascension on April 1st. A moderate Southeast trade wind stayed with us all the way to the Equator. With the wind free on our starboard quarter, we had a lovely, comfortable week. The wind lightened around the Equator and the weather grew almost unbearably hot, but we were lucky to encounter almost no Doldrum weather whatsoever. We had decided to cross the Line well east of rhumb line in order to avoid the worst of the Doldrums over towards Brazil. Although this added about 200 extra miles, it was well worth it to avoid the squalls and thunderstorms typical around the Equator. Just a few days later we reached the Northeast trades. They were strong and very northerly at first so that we were close-hauled to hold course for Barbados, but as we traveled west, the wind shifted more into the east and we were again comfortable. We had several frustrating days of counter-current towards the end of the passage which kicked up a chop, but for the last few hours yesterday we had a very strong favorable current. We were happy that we motored only one hour over the entire passage. We completed our last big ocean crossing yesterday, April 27, 2010, having sailed the 3200 nautical miles in just under a month.
Barbados is a bit of a shock after seeing nothing but sky, sea, and each other for a month. We are tied to the wharf in the main port area, and opposite us is an enormous cruise ship with the requisite Caribbean steel drum band on the pier. The island is much more developed than either of us expected, and Bridgetown is large town mobbed with both tourists and locals. Nonetheless, we are very happy to be here and are looking forward to the rest of the Caribbean. Although it has been much longer for Heretic, Seth and I have been in the Southern Hemisphere for over a year (since we rejoined Heretic where we had left her in Australia during our 2008-2009 winter in the United States), and now we feel very close to home. We also feel like we’ve come full circle: we were last in the Caribbean aboard Heretic in February 2007. Technically, however, we shall not complete the circumnavigation until we arrive back in Maine.
We shall be in Barbados another day or two, mostly doing small boat projects, before sailing the 100 or so miles to Martinique, where we hope to spend some time in a quiet anchorage snorkeling and diving.
All the best,
Ellen and Seth
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