Indian Ocean November 7
We are now tied to the wharf in Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius in the south Indian Ocean, 4000 miles west of Australia and several hundred east of Madagascar. We have been here two weeks, mostly involved in boat maintenance projects, including repairing our steering quadrant. We have also been able to catch up with Greg Carroll aboard Alpheratz. It’s great to see an old Blue Hill friend.
We were able to leave Darwin soon after launching in early August, following our big projects in the boatyard. We had a dead calm for 6 days leaving Darwin, during which we drifted in the heat and watched the sea life. Big brown sea snakes floating on the surface were the most notable. When the wind finally picked up we made a fast passage to Ashmore Reef on the edge of the Australian continental shelf. There we were able to do a dive and lots of snorkeling as well as walking around the little sand cay there with the Customs officer to look for the tracks of turtles laying their eggs.
From Ashmore Reef we had a quick passage the rest of the way to Cocos Keeling atoll, a low island group in the middle of the south Indian Ocean, 2000 nautical miles from Darwin. On that passage we saw spinner dolphins leap fully out of the water and spin around in our wake. The wind and seas were building considerably as we neared the island, but fortunately we made it into the anchorage at dusk right before it really picked up to about 35-45 knots. With our stop at Ashmore Reef, our passage from Darwin took 3 weeks.
Cocos Keeling has an interesting history, first inhabited in 1826 by a Scottish man who set up a coconut plantation with laborers imported from different parts of Southeast Asia, mostly Java and the Malay peninsula. Another part of the atoll was developed in 1944 for an airfield for the Royal Air Force and that island continues to be inhabited today mainly by white Australians. Following UN inspections in 1984 conditions improved drastically for the Cocos Malays and the islanders voted to become part of Australia, which the island still is today.
While we were in Cocos Keeling the weather was predominately rainy and windy, but we still managed to do a lot of snorkeling- the reef life is very nice inside the lagoon- and one dive on which we found several cannons from an 1825 shipwreck. We also did some sail repair and had work done on the transmission. We met quite a few other cruising boats on our route to Mauritius and South Africa, including some whom we have seen since we’ve been in Mauritius, including the British boat Oddity, the German boat Moony, and another Maine boat Bear. We also met a fascinating couple on the Australian boat Siandra who have since gone to Malaysia to leave the boat and do some inland travel in Nepal.
We left Cocos Keeling September 22nd for the 2000 mile passage to Rodriguez, a dependency of Mauritius. The passage was uncomfortable with a big cross swell coming up from the Southern Ocean to compete with the swell created by the strong ESE trade winds. The weather was squally and overcast for the majority of the passage and we were happy to see the hills of Rodriguez come up from the horizon. The passage was, however, quite short due to the strong winds. We did the 2000 miles in 15 days.
We had a wonderful time in Rodriguez, probably one of our favorite places on the trip. We tied Heretic to the wharf in the main town and could leave her unlocked without fear. The population is primarily French African Creole and amazingly friendly. We spent the first couple of days exploring Port Mathurin, the main town, and were thrilled to find the patisserie and the extensive Saturday vegetable market. We visited the giant tortoise reserve, a conservation project for tortoises from the Seychelles and Madagascar since the 2 species endemic to Rodriguez are extinct due to unsustainable exploitation by the first settlers in the 18th and 19th centuries. The reserve also breeds the Rodriguez fruit bat in captivity in case of depletion of its numbers in the wild, and it is trying to reinstate the vegetation native to the island. There is also an enormous cave that we explored in the reserve. We hiked all over the island, along the spectacular eastern shore where the wind and waves have made interesting limestone formations, through the cattle and goat pastures and up some of the hills to get panoramic views over the lagoon and the island’s valleys, and inland in the forests where we got a glimpse of the only two remaining endemic birds, the Rodriguez warbler and Rodriguez fody. (The island formerly had many endemic birds, including the flightless Solitaire, similar to the dodo of Mauritius.) We also did three excellent dives, two with beautiful coral formations and reef fish, and one through a series of six caves where we saw two crayfish over 3 feet long!
We hope to explore Mauritius a little now that our boat projects are mostly complete, before heading on to Reunion, 120 miles from here.
Cheers,
Ellen and Seth
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