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Tonga and Arrival in New Zealand November 26

heretic | 0 comments

It’s been a while since this website has been updated, but now that I’m back in the land of cheap, high speed Internet I’m out of excuses for its neglected state. With any luck I’ll even get some pictures uploaded.

Lizz and I were sad to leave Niue but had a good passage to the Va’vau group in Tonga. We made landfall on the northwestern side of the island group (approaches from the east are tricky due to numerous reefs) at sunrise and had a scenic sail into the Neiafu anchorage. Unfortunately, our sail was extended a bit longer than anticipated when the starter motor wouldn’t engage and we had to beat up the narrow channel into the harbor. The charter boat folks, motoring past at full throttle, didn’t seem to approve of our zigzagging antics (the rigging on charter boats in Va’vau, we later learned, is for the most part aesthetic. One Moorings employee estimated that 60 percent of the charter guests never actually sail). Despite doing it the old fashion way Heretic found a comfortable anchorage and Customs consented to clear us regardless of the fact we didn’t tie up at their wharf and offer them coffee (or, in Bert of Sea Beryl’s case, wine and cigars).

Unfortunately the good weather we enjoyed on arrival didn’t last and we were stuck with a week of clouds, rain, and the odd thunderstorm. The dreary weather prevented us from getting out to some of the nicer, cleaner islands away from town. By the end of the week Lizz and I had both developed a case of what our friend Jason, who was living in Tonga at the time, called Neiafu-itus. Luckily our friends on Bahati, who had arrived before us, provided us with the cure by hosting a fantastic traditional cookout at an attractive island pleasantly distant from town. The Bahati crew cooked up a feast in an underground oven, or Omu, thanks to Josh’s scheming (which evoked a bit of skepticism at first).

During our time in Tonga I made a reasonably successful attempt at readying the boat for the passage south. I was able to quickly set right the broken starter motor – this was the second time I’d had to disassemble, clean, and reassemble it, cut and fit the new inner forestay (thanks to Moonshadow who gave us the new wire back in Nuku Hiva), 5200 the toe rail (which didn’t seem to stop the leak on the port side settee), varnish, and a host of other chores.

As the time to leave for New Zealand neared the social events seemed to increase due largely to Jason’s not-so-subtle efforts to waylay our departure. In the end we stuck around for the October 27th full moon party hosted by Jason, Ben, and Lisa on a small off lying island. Luckily the event didn’t give me a debilitating hangover and the following day we departed for New Zealand, about 1000 NM south southwest.

Our first day and night out was about as perfect as offshore sailing gets. We has a stiff breeze on the beam doing 7 knots, the windvane working better then it ever has (I shortened the rudder post on it so the rudder wouldn’t be so deep, a huge improvement), clear skies, almost no swell, and, at night, a nearly full moon. After midnight we passed the massive volcanic island of Tofua, its cone made even more impressive by the moonlight despite our distance from it. Sadly all good things must come to an end and as we approached Minerva reef the swell picked up and clouds from the low passing to the north of us rolled overhead. About 100 miles from the reef we popped a seem in the jib, probably the sixth to go thus far (Ellen had stitched a five-foot long tear before she had left Aitutaki), and had to roll it up until repairs were made. Luckily the stay provided enough power up front and we continued to make good time to Minerva.

People who aren’t familiar with offshore sailing occasionally ask if we anchor at night in the middle of the ocean. I’ve considered replying facetiously that yes, we carry about 3 miles of anchor rode and do anchor in the middle of the ocean, but on this occasion at least the second part would be true. North Minerva, where we anchored for three days, forms a lagoon without any land 400 miles from Tonga and about 600 miles from New Zealand. It’s an odd feeling being anchored offshore without land in sight. While there’s no protection from the breeze the reef totally eliminates the swell and for three days we had a relatively comfortable spot to anchor and stitch up the jib. Once we got a favorable forecast via single sideband radio we were off again. We had a bit of gear give up on us during the second part of the passage including the ignition switch to the engine (a screwdriver does the trick nicely) and, more importantly, the wind generator. Never the less it was an easy sail to Opua, if a bit slow with light air. Again we made landfall at sunrise and had a spectacular sail up the Bay of Islands to the Customs wharf here in Opua. This time the engine cooperated and we were able to come along side. 30 minutes later we were cleared in and anchored out.  It’s a relief to have arrived; I’m looking forward to staying put for a bit and seeing Ellen when she visits at Christmas.

All the best,

Seth