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Cook Islands part 2 September 26

heretic | 1 comment

September 3rd Lizz Rountree of KYC flew into Aitutaki after sending me an unsuspected offer to crew only a few weeks earlier. (Requests I had made to others earlier had fallen through.) Her first few days were cold and rainy after I’d told her all about how warm and pleasant the weather is here. However, as soon as the rain cleared she got a proper welcome to the cruising community, sandpaper, varnish, and all. The fun didn’t stop when we left Aitutaki for Palmerston a week later. Lizz’s introduction to offshore sailing came with seasickness, 25 knots, and a bumpy ride second only to Ellen and my trip to the Cooks. My idea of fun (and sanity) was suspected of being somewhat off until, after leaving Palmerston, we had some decent weather at sea.

Palmerston is a small atoll 210 nautical miles West of Aitutaki, renowned for its hospitality towards yachts. On arrival, Bob Marsters (everyone on the island is a Marsters; the founder William, divided the island amongst his three wives and bred prolifically. Today around 50 people live on the island with Marsters relatives throughout the Cooks.) came out in an aluminum skiff and showed us to a mooring outside the pass. For the remainder of our stay he picked us up every morning, fed us lunch every day, and brought us back every evening asking nothing in return (although he ended up with a collection of school supplies for the island). Our visit coincided with that of Pacific Grace, a schooner from British Colombia (and sister-ship to the schooner Ellen sailed on briefly six years ago) with 36 trainees on for various legs of a Pacific tour. Their unfortunate crew got a crash course in Cook Island dancing and put on an energetic, if not perfectly coordinated, performance for us.

Heretic arrived in Niue, a small, independent South Pacific island between the Cooks and Tonga on September 20th after a comfortable passage. Thus far the island has been wonderful. The “yacht club” here (they’ve no boats of their own but over 1000 cruising members, myself included, for whom they provide services) has moorings which is lucky for us considering how tricky anchoring on the bottom here would be. Furthermore, we’ve access to free hot showers (the first for me since Bora Bora) and wireless Internet thanks to the Niue YC. We’ll be here another few days before heading off to Tonga and finally New Zealand, 1000 miles South Southwest.

All the best,

Seth

Cook Islands part 1 September 26

heretic | 1 comment

On August 6th Ellen and I departed from Bora Bora for Mopelia, a small, sparsely inhabited atoll some hundred and twenty or so miles to the West Southwest between the Society Islands and the Cooks. The trade winds were in force and we made the trip in under 24 hours, arriving at two in the afternoon. The small villages on the windward motus (small islands around the edge of a lagoon) are home to ten to twenty people, depending how many are away in Tahiti selling pearls. The windward beaches made for top notch shell collecting and we loved watching hoards of baby black tip reef sharks chase the little fish around the the shallows of the lagoon. On the 10th we pushed off for Aitutaki in the Cook Islands.

Since leaving the Galapagos Ellen and I have had fairly good weather, except for some rain squalls, some of which have been a bit strong.  Sadly, this good weather didn’t last as far as the Cooks. The forecast called for 10 – 20 knots along our route. Instead, we got, according to the log, a “cranking breeze.” The entries for the 10th to 11th go on to read “… have been hitting 7.5 kts., averaging 6.5+. Few rain showers. Motion a little uncomfortable – Ellen and I both feeling a little blah. 8/11 – Roughest weather on trip thus far. Wind picked up to probably 30 kts. (our wind indicator doesn’t really work) – saw at least 40 in gusts. Reached under ½ rolled up jib most of night, set storm try in morning. Waves 10′ max 15 or so. Made 165 miles in 24 hrs.” It wasn’t what might be properly called “weather,” but it still was a far cry from a good time. The boat did fine, although we found a few new leaks and filled up the cockpit a few times with waves. Just to make sure we got the memo about weather not being perfect in the tropical Pacific the wind died 60 or so miles from Aitutaki coming only in rain squalls complete with lightning – never a welcome phenomenon when your home has a 52 foot lightning rod coming out of the roof.

As might be expected, we arrived in Aitutaki fairly well exhausted. The “well marked” (so said the cruising guide) pass alluded us until Reinhart, a cruiser from Germany, was nice enough to row out in his dinghy (row?! Unheard of.) and pilot us into the anchorage. To anyone who might think of using a chartplotter and GPS to navigate, things in the South Pacific are in the wrong place. We were running MaxSea 10 and it had the pass a few hundred meters south of the actual entrance where there is a false pass (a break in the reef that ended in one to two feet of water and solid coral). The US DMA charts are miles off in places (one island was four miles off in the Cooks). GPS will get you your landfall, but when it comes to navigating in tight spaces, sight is the best practice.

After Bora Bora, Aitutaki was pleasantly low key. It was small enough to be manageable by foot and bike (at 5 NZ dollars a day) but had enough to do to keep Ellen and me busy for her remaining weeks. The “mountain,” all 300 feet of it, offered spectacular views of the lagoon; snorkeling was decent inside the lagoon despite the max depth of 8 feet, and great outside (almost better then diving as the visibility deteriorated after you got below about 40 or 50 feet), and the people are wonderful. To top it all off, I’m convinced that every under 40 year old cruiser, a hard to come by specimen, was in Aitutaki during my stay.

Sadly, on August 25th, Ellen had to return to the States in order to return to Yale for the fall semester. After 11 months and 11,000 nautical miles between Blue Hill and Aitutaki, it was hard to see her go, but luckily she and I will be able to log some more miles after the South Pacific cyclone season. Felix and Anna of Stray, an aluminum catamaran from New Zealand, were a great help in keeping me busy after Ellen’s departure. Much moping was avoided thanks to their efforts.

All the best,

Seth