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French Polynesia July 29

heretic | 2 comments

Heretic in the Rangeroa lagoon

After our 48 hour bout with food poisoning in the Galapagos, Ellen and I finally pushed off for the 3000 mile Pacific crossing on May 24.  After Dana had returned home to the United States, we had spent the remainder of our time in the Galapagos diving (we completed our Advanced certification course), and traveling for a couple days on Isabella Island.  We primarily enjoyed our Pacific crossing: winds were light and dead astern for the majority of the passage making it slow but, aside from the rolling inherent in running down wind, comfortable. We ran into several squalls approaching the Marquesas (a few gusts to 40 knots), but nothing significant broke, and we arrived in Hiva Oa after 27 days at sea. Both Ellen and I concluded the time we spent at sea had an interesting, and not all negative effect on our psychological state. However, our trials were nothing compared to our friend David aboard Pinta whom, after losing a stay, had a 38 day passage to Tahiti under jib alone – solo. The Marquesas were beautiful and dramatic. The friendliness of the people was equally impressive; in one town boats were given (in quantity enough to share amongst all the boats there) gifts of fish, grapefruit and limes. After stops at Hiva Oa, Tahuata, and Nuku Hiva (the big city!) we had another slow, downwind passage (except for a couple nighttime squalls) to Rangiroa, the second biggest atoll in the world (the biggest is in the Marshal Islands). The dive at Tiputa pass, one of the world’s best drift dives, was a highlight of the trip for both of us. The 200 or so motus (small coral islands around a lagoon’s barrier reef) were spectacular and cruising in the lagoon gave us a welcome break from the swell.

During our stay in Rangiroa both Ellen and I decided that a stop in Tahiti wasn’t worth it. For one, it is south of the Society Islands we were most interested in visiting, and second, being a major port, city, and tourist destination we figured it would be more of a zoo then we could handle. Consequently, from Rangiroa we headed directly for Huahine, which soon became one of our favorite islands yet visited. Huahine is a high island with a barrier reef around it (think Bora Bora) meaning the best of both worlds - protected anchorages in a lagoon and stunning mountains on the main island. Traditional culture is at its best in Huahine. It is home of the most extensively restored archaeological sites in French Polynesia and we were lucky enough to be around for both canoe races and traditional dancing (into which I was dragged). From Huahine the next two islands, Raiatea and Bora Bora, are short (20 mile) day sails, although 20 - 25 knots from dead astern and a cross sea coming up from the south made the latter passage fast but uncomfortable. We’re currently in Bora Bora, a postcard perfect island and the last of the major French Polynesian ones. Unfortunately, we are not the only ones to have noticed the beauty of the place and tourism has taken its toll with jet skis and sprawling resorts. Luckily, being on a boat allows us to get away from the busiest places. Well established diving facilities (they have moorings so we don’t have to use our own anchor) and well stocked grocery stores are a silver lining of the tourist infrastructure.

From here we intend to stop at one more small French Polynesian atoll 180 or so miles west southwest of here before the Cook Islands where it’s rumored an hour on-line costs less then the local $10-25 an hour. On that note – apologies for the lack of response to everyone’s e-mails. It’s great to hear how everyone back home (or in Switzerland) is doing.

Since the maintenance headaches of Panama we’ve been doing wonderfully well, knock on wood. The biggest failure has been a broken inner forestay, with smaller failures including the traveler, the persistently leaky mast (we’ve determined it’s leaking in from behind the track), corrosion on the mast step (it wasn’t anodized aluminum!), a main halyard that chafed through and snapped on Ellen’s watch during the passage to Rangiroa, and the regular upkeep tasks of oil changes, filter changes (the fuel from Panama and the Galapagos did a number on our primary fuel filter), and varnish (we continue to get compliments on the woodwork, which is always nice). Nevertheless we’ve managed to catch up with a number of friends from Panama including Thalia, Sea Beryl, Jeff and Meryl of Sifar and David and Brian of Pinta.

All the best to friends and family,

Seth and Ellen