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Panama Canal Horrors

The past week and a half have been frustrating.  Dana, Seth´s father, arrived last Tuesday morning and on Tuesday night we weighed anchor, picked up our Transit Advisor, Cooper, and around 8pm, we left for Gatun Locks. On the trip up the 85 feet to Gatun lake we rafted up with a tug so we didn´t have to linehandle up the locks.  At one point we were all just sitting there going up the locks and Cooper yelled at us because we weren´t taking pictures.  We got to the mooring on the lake at about 1130 that night and moored next to Euphoria, our friends from Port Antonio. In the morning we all left the mooring to continue onto the other locks about 22 miles away.  It couldn´t have been more than 30 minutes into the trip that we noticed our speed dropping from 6 knots down to 3.  We knew instantly that the key that we had repaired in the Turks and Caicos had sheered again.  We rolled out the jib, but our advisor for the day, George, was a stickler about the rules.  He would not let us continue sailing and he said we had to drop the anchor there in the channel.

We dropped the anchor and immediately started taking apart the coupler and cutting a temporary key from the key stock we got in George Town in the Bahamas.  Once installed we figured out that there was more of problem then we originally thought.  After a couple attempts to fix the problem we knew we had to be towed back to the mooring to try and fix it.  George called a launch to tow us and when they arrived we tried to bring up the anchor.  Unfortunately, Gatun Lake is man made, and the area used to be a forest.  The anchor got caught around a dead tree at the bottom.  After about 35 minutes of trying to get the anchor up we had the launch try.  At one point we could see the root system to a tree coming up underneath the boat.  The tree was so big that it was utterly impossible to bring it up, so Seth decided to leave it and tie a buoy to it so that we could get a diver to retrieve it later. This did not work out, since the buoy had been taken away when the diver came to get it, so at this point we no longer have our primary anchor and its 100´ of chain.  We hooked up to the back of the launch which towed us back to the mooring ball at 8 knots, much faster than our hull speed so the cockpit drains were backfilling and we had about 3 inches of water in the cockpit.  All this despite the fact that we had asked him to go slow.  We got back to the mooring without breaking anything else, however, and tried again to fix the engine trouble.  When we put the new temporary key into the shaft and put the engine in gear, the transmission was moving in an orbital motion which told us that the engine was out of alignment.  This was a much bigger problem that would have to be fixed in a place with facilities (i.e. not Gatun Lake.) Seth rowed to the pilot launch facility to figure out how to get towed out of the lake and to Panama City.

When Seth and Ellen were off trying to make arrangements in Colon, Dana and I (John) worked on the engine mounts and trying to get the engine realigned with the shaft so we could power ourselves out of the lake.  Unfortunately each time we we tried we found something else wrong with the mounts and the bed logs that the mounts are attached too.  The first thing we noticed was that the starboard aft mount was corroding, and that the port aft mount was moving freely even though it was bolted down to the bed log.  We then figured out that the bed log was rotting.  With further inspection we came to the conclusion that the rear of the engine had dropped almost a quarter of an inch, throwing the engine totally out of alignment.  We also noticed that both forward engine mounts lag screws into the bed logs were corroding and not gripping the bore hole that they screw down into, which makes the engine loose.

After much inquiry and much bureaucracy in Colon, Seth and Ellen found a boat that was willing to tow us.  We were lucky enough to meet the family aboard Orient Express,  a 58 foot catamaran.  Selçuk, Catherine and her 8 year old son Maxime were willing to tow us through the lake and the locks and get us to the anchorage at Flamenco in Panama City, and we had simply to find them two line handlers on top of two of us joining them to line handle.  This all worked out and on Tuesday Dana and I finally got to leave the boat after 8 days of being on the lake looking at land only 100 yards from the boat.
On Tuesday night Dana and I headed up the locks aboard Orient Express.  It was another easy ride up the locks as we were rafted up with a military patrol boat and we didn´t have to do any line handling.  Really simple.  We arrived at the mooring with no troubles and had a great dinner cooked up by Catherine.  So far so good.

The next morning we are all up and the pilot boat arrived and they did not have a pilot for us or for Orient Express.  Luckily 20 minutes later our pilots arrived.  We ended up having Cooper again and he said that when he was told the night before that he had Heretic to advise he didn´t believe it because he had taken us up 9 days earlier.  The other advisor was Meza and both of them were great.  It made the tow very enjoyable and smooth.  The locks going down went very well and we arrived at Flamenco with no troubles.

We finally are out of the canal and we are all very excited to be out, but now starts the hard part: fixing everything that is broken and installing the new parts that Dana brought with him from Maine.  Seth was able to borrow a prop puller this morning and we have gotten the shaft out of the boat and he is currently trying to decided whether or not to have this rebuilt or get a new one.  Right now the thought is we will be here for a week or two, but we aren´t really sure right now.  We are just glad to be out of the canal.

We are so appreciative of everyone who has helped us get through the canal especially Selçuk, Catherine and Maxime who were so nice to tow us and feed us as we went through the canal.  We also want to thank David who shuttled Seth and Ellen around the anchorage trying to find someone who could tow us through the canal.  Without these people we could still be sitting in Gatun Lake.

We will give you updates as the repairs continue.

Cheers,

John

Negril, Jamaica and passage to Panama

We left Port Antonio about 2 1/2 weeks ago and headed to Negril which was a quick 28 hour sail. Negril was a very touristy town whose beach was crowded with all inclusive resorts. We knew Negril would be touristy, but we weren’t prepared for just how touristy it was.  We spent one day at one of these with a day pass, which was fun, but not as fun as our adventures in Port Antonio.  We had an adventure of a less pleasurable sort when we wanted to check out of the country. This involved an epic bus ride to Montego Bay, but it was finally all over and we left the next morning for the 600 mile trek to Colon, Panama, the Atlantic entrance to the Canal.

We pulled up the hook and set sail in a good 15 knots of wind, but not 2 hours into the sail the wind completely died and we sat bobbing in about 6-8 foot seas. One of the more uncomfortable 15 hours we have had. Finally the wind picked up to about 20 to 25 knots and we started flying down towards Panama. It was a pretty exciting 600 miles: the only wiring not yet replaced in the boat, the engine instrument panel, caught fire briefly, and unfortunately the lines running to the wind vane chaffed through which forced us to hand steer for 3 days into Panama. Once we were within 30 miles of Colon the boat traffic increased dramatically. We had over ten tankers, freighters, etc., all within 4 miles of us.  We decided to wait until the sun was coming up to enter through the breakwater.
We dropped anchor on last Sunday morning around 0630, made some pancakes and then headed in to find out that we couldn’t check in to customs or immigration.  On Monday we started the process of checking into immigration which was a little difficult since none of us speak Spanish. A man in the immigration office acted out what each word was on the visa paperwork to try and get us to understand. We hired an agent, Tito, at the Panama Canal Yacht Club, and he was very helpful, efficient, and inexpensive.  We were very happy with him, and probably would have been lost without him.
We’ve met some new people here as well as reconnecting with old friends: Max and Brian whom we’d met in Jamaica, David and single-hander from England, also circumnavigating, and a group of young cruisers from Chicago.

On Thursday Josh went through the canal on another boat for some experience and Seth, Ellen, Max, Brian, David, and Debray from David’s boat, and myself (John) all went to Gamboa to the botanical gardens and the zoo where we got to see lots of monkeys, a jaguar and parrots.
Josh went through the canal on the S/V Helen Kate owned by Gunnar and Ingville, and then I went through the canal on the S/V Nefarious on Friday night which turned into a longer trip then expected.  We had no issues getting through the entrance locks, but we weren’t given a transit advisor for the second day, so we had to spend a full day at the mooring in Lake Gatun before we were able to go any further.  Instead of arriving back in Colon on Saturday night I got back to the yacht club on Sunday night to find out that Seth, Ellen, Josh and Brian had all gone to Portobela that day which is about 30 minutes from Colon. They visited the 17th century Spanish fort and customs house there.
Seth’s father, Dana, is flying down to Panama City today and will arrive in Colon tomorrow morning.  He will transit the Canal with us and do the passage to the Galapagos.  He is to bring with him a wind generator, a tiller pilot and other assorted pieces of equipment for the boat.  We are currently scheduled to transit the canal tomorrow and Wednesday.  We will leave the anchorage and get through the first three locks before mooring in Lake Gatun for the night and hopefully we should arrive in Panama City on Wednesday afternoon.  We all are looking forward to leaving Colon and continuing on the adventure.