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Great Inagua, Bahamas and Jamaica February 20

heretic | 0 comments

<meta content="OpenOffice.org 2.0 (Win32)" name="GENERATOR" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="AUTHOR" /><meta content="20100210;12030200" name="CREATED" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="CHANGEDBY" /><meta content="20100219;8053410" name="CHANGED" /><style> <!-- @page { size: 8.5in 11in; margin: 0.79in } P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } --> </style>We left Provo on the 8th of February for Great Inagua. We motored most of the way due to lack of wind, and when we arrived at Man of War Bay, it was deserted, but not for long. We made some lunch and a boat came motoring past us and blew their fog horn.  We were shocked that someone would do that but we were even more shocked when it turned out to be Duncan and Elaine on <em>Haforn </em>whom we met in Beaufort, NC about two months earlier.</p> <p>The next day we took Duncan for a sail because we were having issues getting our new Aries Windvane to work, and low and behold Duncan showed us that we set up the lines wrong.  Once fixed it worked beautifully.  It was a great sail during which we caught 2 Skipjack tuna.  We ate the fish that night in front of a bonfire that we made on the beach and we made plans to go down to Matthew Town the next day.  Matthew Town is a company town for Morton Salt.  There are very few cruising boats that visit Matthew Town and consequently everyone there was interested in where we had been and where we were going.  The people there were all so generous.  We went into a bar/restaurant and asked if they were serving food and the man behind the counter said that they weren’t, but he had ice cream, candy and beer.  We each had a beer and ice cream and when we were finishing up, he told us that his wife was bringing dinner for us.  Five minutes later we were eating chicken, chili, and a macaroni casserole.  The food was absolutely delicious. When we were finished he wouldn’t let us pay him for the dinner!</p> <p>The next day, Monday the 12th, the four of us and Duncan and Elaine went on a tour of the island with the park ranger.  It was a three hour tour in his truck and we got to see the salt pans for Morton Salt and the flamingos which are concentrated on Lake Windsor.  Lake Windsor is the largest flamingo breeding colony in the northern hemisphere, so we saw flocks of flamingos and then the outskirts of the Morton Salt Facility.  Later in the day we went to the lighthouse on the southwest point of the island.  This is supposedly one of the last kerosene lighthouses in world.  Josh, Ellen and I (John) climbed to the top of the lighthouse which has magnificent views from the top. Supposedly on a clear day you can see Cuba from the top.</p> <p>That night we left for Jamaica because the weather report said we were supposed to have wind until late the next day.  Once again the forecast was wrong.  The wind died Tuesday morning around 4 am at which point we bobbed in the Windward Passage between Cuba and Haiti for a day and a half.  About this time we got tired of sitting and started up our Perkins diesel and ran it till about 10 when the wind finally picked up.</p> <p>On Thursday we arrived in Port Antonio which is on the Northeast corner of the island.  After a little bit of exploring Port Antonio on Friday we decided to head up to Reach Falls on Saturday.  The falls are ”closed” but you can get a local “guide” to bring you to the falls by walking up the river from below.  The water that flows down the river is the clearest water I have ever seen. There is a cave behind the falls that you can get to by going through the falls.  Our guide suggested that we go to a place called the Bird Fountain. It was a sulfur spring so the water that comes out of the mountain is about 130 degrees Fahrenheit.</p> <p>The next day, Sunday, we went to the African Drum Festival which happens once a year here in Jamaica.  We went with people from three other sailboats that we have met.  Brian from SV <em>Euphoria</em> (also heading through the Panama Canal), Mark and Louise from SV <em>JEM</em>, and Chris, Sophy, Otti and Mimi from the SV <em>Sarah Grace</em> all went to the festival.  We arrived at the festival around 11am as the crowds were beginning to arrive.  We went assuming that there was going to be live music on the main stage all day, but we were wrong unfortunately.  We walked around the festival most of the day, ate lots of food and checked out all the little shops that were selling trinkets.  We left the festival around 4 since the music hadn’t started yet and it was beginning to rain.</p> <p>We are currently getting ready to leave Port Antonio for Negril which is on the western side of the island.  We are changing the oil and the fuel filters and should be ready to leave tomorrow morning.  We have heard so much about Jamaica not being safe, but we have yet to experience that.  It seems to be a very poor island and people are always looking for money, but we have not felt unsafe in Port Antonio.  Overall Port Antonio was a great experience and we are looking forward to getting to Negril in the next day or two.  From there we will go to Colon, Panama, the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal. </p> </div> </div> <div class="post" id="post-85"> <h2 class="posttitle"> <a href="http://www.hereticsailing.com/?p=85" rel="bookmark" title="Permanent Link to Turks and Caicos, British West Indies">Turks and Caicos, British West Indies <span class="postdate">February 1</span></a> </h2> <p class="postmeta">heretic | <a href="http://www.hereticsailing.com/?p=85#comments">0 comments</a></p> <div class="the_content"> <p>The past week since we left George Town in the Bahamas has gone by very fast. In that time we arrived here in Providenciales in the Turks and Caicos, our windvane arrived and Seth, Ellen and I (John) became certified to scuba dive through a PADI dive course. We left George Town with Josh from <em>San San</em> on board, in what was supposed to be a NE wind which would have been perfect for sailing to the Turks. But instead, the sail down was very choppy and we were sailing close to the wind the whole way. Only three things broke on this short passage: the compass light short circuited and lit on fire so we lost our compass light for the entire sail. Second the starboard bilge pump broke so we couldn’t pump that side of the bilge and third the galley locks which hold the galley from swinging broke, but overall nothing catastrophic.</p> <p>As we arrived in Provo, the swells were about 6 feet and we could not see the cut to get through the reef. We called the marina on the radio and they provided a free pilot into the marina. The navigation buoys were not in place that day, so it was very nice having the pilot to bring us in. We took a slip at the Turtle Cove Marina and here we have met many people: Makea, Chip, and Sam from S/V <em>Midnight</em>, John and Chris from s/v<em> Life is Good</em>, and the family aboard s/v <em>Epicurus</em>.</p> <p>Soon after arriving in Provo, John, Seth, and I (Ellen now) started the PADI scuba diving certification course. The first two days involved theory, written quizzes, and work in the pool at a resort across the island from the marina. At first it was an odd sensation to breathe comfortably underwater, but we soon got used to it and were able to complete all the required skills, including taking off and replacing our masks. The next two days consisted of open water dives from the boat. The first day took us to Grace Bay, two dives to gradually sloping coral reefs in the national park here. The second day we went over to West Caicos for two dives to steep coral drop-offs. I (Ellen) managed to cut my hand on a shell on the second dive so did not complete the course. But I had a nice conversation with Tony, one of the dive instructors while he bandaged up my hand. He gave me some great tips on places to dive in the South Pacific. And then I did another dive the next day to complete the course. These two dives were again at West Caicos on some beautiful coral walls. These were probably the best two dives I went on. Saw a big sting ray, the size of my arm span, and a curious boxy looking fish known as a cowfish. Mark, our instructor was really fantastic, very calm, patient, and enthusiastic. He has been a dive instructor for about 10 years now, and has gone on some incredible dives, from sharks off Africa, to wrecks off Australia, to a 300 foot deep dive in the Red Sea.</p> <p>The day after completing the dive course, work on the boat began in earnest. Josh and I (Ellen) went on a marathon journey all around the island to get the bronze key for the prop shaft. Meanwhile Seth and John managed to fix the galley lock and the compass light and begin to install the wind vane, which was thankfully delivered the morning after our arrival here. Yesterday was a disaster of a day; everything that could go wrong did. We had to take pieces of the wind vane back to the machine shop because they weren’t done right the first time, and other things of that sort. The only thing that did go right was receipt of my parents’ package full of parmesan cheese and energy bars. We celebrated by eating pasta with massive amounts of cheese for dinner. Today didn’t go much better. We got the propellor shaft back into the boat without sinking, but the coupler didn’t fit with the remachined shaft. Once we fixed that problem it turned out the threads for set screws in the coupler are stripped. Then, as we tried to finish the windvane, we came to the realization that what we had completed already had to be redone in a different area on the stern. So we need to cut out some of the toe rail on the stern to be able to install the windvane. All extremely frustrating, but hopefully tomorrow, Friday, will work out better for us.<br /> We hope to leave here very soon and our next stop will be Jamaica before we head out for the Canal. </p> </div> </div> <div class="post"> <p class="nav"></p> </div> </div> <div id="footer"> <p>All text, photographs, and videos © Ellen Massey and Seton Leonard, 2010, All Rights Reserved. Design by <a href="http://theundersigned.net">the undersigned</a> | Theme sponsor: <a href="http://www.webertables.com">Weber Poker Tables</a><br />All Rights Reserved © 2010.</p> </div> </div> </body> </html>