<meta content="OpenOffice.org 2.0 (Win32)" name="GENERATOR" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="AUTHOR" /><meta content="20100708;19414379" name="CREATED" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="CHANGEDBY" /><meta content="20100708;19551721" name="CHANGED" /><style>  </style> Heretic sailing chronicles the voyage of the sloop Heretic westward around the world. Seth Leonard of Blue Hill, Maine purchased her in April 2006 and began refitting her for the voyage. Heretic departed Blue Hill in September 2006 with Seth Leonard, Ellen Massey, and two friends. They reached the Panama Canal in March 2007 where the two friends departed and Seth’s father joined for the passage to the Galapagos Islands. From the Galapagos onwards Seth and Ellen sailed Heretic alone. Their route took them to French Polynesia and other South Pacific Islands, New Zealand, Australia, across the South Indian Ocean to South Africa, and across the Atlantic from Cape Town to the Caribbean, Bermuda, and back to Maine. The entire circumnavigation took 3 years and 10 months and totaled 32,000 nautical miles. </article> <article> <h1>Completion of Circumnavigation</h1> heretic — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 00:23:50 +0000 <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="CONTENT-TYPE" /><title /><meta content="OpenOffice.org 2.0 (Win32)" name="GENERATOR" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="AUTHOR" /><meta content="20100708;19170849" name="CREATED" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="CHANGEDBY" /><meta content="20100708;19442493" name="CHANGED" /><style>  </style> We have successfully completed our global circumnavigation! Seth and I returned to Blue Hill, Maine on June 28, 2010, where a large collection of family and friends greeted us with cannons, signal flags, champagne, and hugs. We couldn’t have asked for a better homecoming. We left Bermuda on June 19 after ten days packed with sightseeing, varnishing, and socializing. We were sad to say goodbye, especially to our South African friends aboard Thiswan. Our passage to Maine was very pleasant at times, and at other times very frustrating. Our first day and a half out of Bermuda saw dead calms. Although we had never done this in the whole previous 31, 000 miles, we motored for a full 24 hours. The wind came up from the SW and we had very pleasant sailing for a day as the wind steadily strengthened. The next day was uncomfortable with 30 knot SW winds. A calm followed, and again we motored until a pleasant SW wind picked up. We saw the same pattern of steady strengthening to 30 knots as we were approaching the eastern side of Georges Bank. We left the Gulf Stream on the night of June 24 and were stunned by the cold after so much time in warm waters. The Gulf of Maine greeted us with light winds from ahead and a few hours of thick fog. The night and morning of the 26th was calm but beautiful. We were excited to see the sun rise earlier and earlier as we moved north, and landfall off Mt Desert Island in the 3:30 pre-dawn light was breathtaking. We motored the rest of the way into Bar Harbor where our US Customs and Immigration official was friendly and efficient. We enjoyed the sea life again on this passage. We sighted White tailed tropic birds, Great Shearwaters, and in the Gulf of Maine Northern Fulmars and a couple gull species. Just before leaving the Gulf Stream, Seth landed a large mahi mahi. It is great to be back home; we both appreciate the beauty of Maine’s coast after being away for so long. After clearing customs we had a pleasant sail west around the bottom of Mt Desert and anchored for the night off a little spruce-covered island where we saw several bald eagles. After a good night’s rest, we sailed up Blue Hill bay for the excellent welcome home party our parents had organized. Dropping the hook in Blue Hill completed the full circumnavigation of 32,000 miles and 3 years and ten months. </article> <article> <h1>Bermuda</h1> heretic — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 14:07:13 +0000 <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="CONTENT-TYPE" /><title /><meta content="OpenOffice.org 2.0 (Win32)" name="GENERATOR" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="AUTHOR" /><meta content="20100617;8554021" name="CREATED" /><meta content="Seth Leonard" name="CHANGEDBY" /><meta content="20100617;9404723" name="CHANGED" /><style>  </style> We have been anchored in St Georges, Bermuda, for a week now and have thoroughly enjoyed the island, and its cooler weather after the heat of the West Indies. We spent a week in English Harbor, Antigua, where we were able to complete a few boat projects and do a little sightseeing. The Nelson Dockyard and museum provided an interesting look at the history of Antigua as a British colony, and English Harbor as an important harbor for the Royal Navy at the time of the Napoleonic Wars. We enjoyed swimming and diving (especially a night dive) at the mouth of the harbor, and the the hikes around its headlands which led to several 19th century forts and batteries with excellent views up and down the coast. A front with SW winds forced us out of English Harbor and around to Nonsuch Bay on the NE coast. The topography was much flatter on that side of the island and we were a little disappointed to find much of the coral dead from the damage of fish traps and bleached from the 90 degree surface water temperatures. On May 30 we had a pleasant 32 mile daysail to Barbuda, flying the spinnaker the whole way. The water was beautifully clear, but unfortunately the coral was also dead and supported few fish. We cleared out at the small town the next day, and set sail for Bermuda on June 1. Our passage to Bermuda went very well for the first seven days: light to moderate breezes on our quarter with sunny skies and progressively cooler weather. We had several Great Shearwaters follow the boat for days on end, and often spotted White-tailed Tropic birds. Since we were passing through the Sargasso Sea, we hauled up seaweed in a bucket and found the Sargassum crab, a brown pelagic crab. On the night of June 8, we sailed right into the middle of a low pressure that brought strong headwinds and relatively large chop. Tacking against wind and sea, we made little progress that night. When the sun came up and we were in view of the island, the wind died but the chop remained, so we gave up and motor-sailed the last 35 miles. We arrived on the afternoon of June 9, and were happy to see that our South African friends aboard Thiswan had also arrived. Since our arrival, we have thoroughly explored the town of St Georges. Its 19th century pastel-colored buildings are set along narrow winding streets, and everything one could need is within walking distance. The harbor is picturesque, scattered with little islands and inlets. Views from the hills and British forts around town take in much of the island and lagoon. We have also visited the city of Hamilton, and Bermuda’s aquarium and natural history museum which have good information about the island’s volcanic formation 100 million years ago, and its flora and fauna. We did two dives on wrecks outside the barrier reef: the Kate (1878) had little remaining except its frame and propeller, but its coral and fish life were beautiful and very healthy; the Rita Zovetta (1924) had much more of its structure intact, but less coral growing on it. We have also enjoyed catching up with friends and making new friends on the other yachts here. 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Our engine project went very smoothly: Seth has grown very competent with diesels, and, once the engine was lifted out of the boat with the Yacht Club’s crane, he had it completely taken apart in one afternoon. The engineering company here has been excellent, and we got our parts shipped from Europe relatively quickly. We had the cylinders honed, the valves and injectors cleaned, new injector nozzles put on, and all three pistons replaced. The engine returned to the boat today, started up on the first turn of the key, and we are provisioning and getting ready to leave for the South Atlantic. Other projects have included six coats of varnish (Heretic looks very nice), rebedding one of the aft ports, the port shrouds, and a few bolts in the toerail to stop some minor leaks, repairing tears in our staysail that were the result of the gale off Cape Agulhas, and having a third reef point put in our spare mainsail. The mainsail that has made it over 25,000 nautical miles from Maine to Mossel Bay, South Africa, is now officially retired. The UV radiation in the southern hemisphere has rotted its cloth enough to where the last tear is irreparable, so we have switched to our spare mainsail. We are very happy with it: the fabric feels almost like new; it has batten cars so the battens won’t work through their pockets at the luff, and the third reef point we had done here looks excellent. We have also been able to do some sightseeing. We rented a car (it is very difficult to do anything here without one), and headed down to the Cape of Good Hope for two day trips. We saw the African Penguin nesting colony near Simons Town, and did a shore dive with our scuba gear nearby. Unfortunately, we did not see any penguins underwater, but we had fun diving in a kelp forest, a big change from the tropical reefs of Mozambique and the Indian Ocean islands. We hiked in the Cape Point nature reserve. 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During all the time we’ve spent sailing in the southern hemisphere we have been making up our own, except for the obvious Southern Cross, of course. We visited the Robben Island gateway, whose exhibit on the atrocities of apartheid was so moving that we have yet to visit the prison itself where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for so many years. Last night we heard the Cape Town Philharmonic play at City Hall. The acoustics were excellent and their rendition of Dvorak’s New World Symphony also excellent. In the next few days, we will finish our provisioning for the Atlantic, a big job since we are buying goods here that we hope will last us until our return to Maine, and we will say our goodbyes to the good friends we’ve spent so much time with here: Wolfgang and Denise aboard Moony and Soenke and Judith aboard Hippopotamus. We leave this coming Tuesday, February 23, for St. Helena island, about 1500 miles northwest of here. 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We made landfall in South Africa on December 13, after spending a week at Reunion Island, and two weeks making the fifteen hundred mile passage from there to Richards Bay, our first South African port. Reunion, a part of France, was a very nice change from Port Louis in Mauritius. It was clean and efficient with a good bus system and an extensive national park in the mountains. We had our radar fixed there, and explored the island a bit, doing some overnight hiking in the calderas that surround the highest peak, Piton des Neiges which reaches over 11,000 feet. The hiking was beautiful and dramatic; the shear walls of the calderas contrasted with lilies growing on the banks of streams, and in one caldera which has no roads, the little towns take you back in time, that is, until the helicopter comes to supply them. In Reunion we said goodbye to Greg and crew aboard Alpheratz, since they reached Cape Town before us and will now be ahead of us on the rest of the voyage. On our passage to Richards Bay we encountered mostly light winds, but occasionally had unpleasantly strong wind and waves; the strongest we had was a southwesterly that blew up about thirty miles from Richards Bay. It created steep waves since it blew contrary to the fast-moving Agulhas Current, and we were happy to reach the harbor. In Richards Bay we met up with the Alaskan boat Rose whom we had met in Mauritius, but we spent the majority of our time there touring inland in KwaZulu-Natal province. We spent three and a half weeks touring various provincial parks. We started with two smallish game reserves where we were thrilled to see zebra, giraffes, many species of antelope, baboons, monkeys, rhinos, hyaenas, and a leopard. We went next to a reserve whose specialty is birds, and there we saw the African jacana, a bird that walks on lily-pads. We had an excursion into Mozambique to do some diving, and while the life on the reef was abundant, we were disappointed to find how much our Lonely Planet had mislead us. We believed we were going to a quiet beachside dive operation, and found out it was like Cancun without the high-rises. The place was mobbed with drunk white vacationers on jet skis and ATVs, and the blatant disregard for the poverty of those living there was appalling. We quickly returned to the South African parks, this time going to the Drakensberg escarpment where we did some hiking both above and below the cliffs, and saw a San rock art site. We ended our trip at a bigger park which has lions and elephants, and there we went on guided walks for two days. Seeing rhinos, buffalo, antelope, baboons, an elephant, and a pack of African wild dogs while on foot with the knowledgeable rangers was the highlight of our trip. The volatile weather in South Africa means that it is necessary to take shelter in ports along the coast while making one’s way south. We made as fast a voyage as we could to Cape Town, stopping first in East London, where we had to wait for favorable weather. We took a short camping trip to Addo Elephant National Park in that time. We found it interesting since its landscape was so different from the lusher areas we had visited in KwaZulu-Natal. From East London we went to Port Elizabeth, whose marina was in terrible disrepair, and then to Mossel Bay, and thence to Cape Town. On our passage to Cape Town we encountered some nasty weather as we rounded Cape Agulhas, the most southern point in Africa. A 35-40 knot southeasterly blew up and quickly built heavy seas for nearly twelve hours. As quickly as it came, however, it left, and we motored from the Cape of Good Hope all the way up to Cape Town in a dead calm. We entered the harbor in a heavy fog around midnight on the 26th, two weeks out of Richards Bay. So far we have very much enjoyed Cape Town; Table Mountain dominates the view from the Yacht Club where we are moored; the aquarium we visited yesterday is excellent, and we have reconnected with old friends: Moony, Oddity, Bear, and Hippopotamus, a German boat we met in Mauritius. We have work to do on the boat here, including the biggest project: the engine’s oil burning problem. Fortunately, the yacht club here has a yard attached to it, where a crane can lift out the engine and parts can be ordered easily. We plan to stay three weeks working on the boat, and hopefully seeing a little of the area: Table Mountain, the penguin colony on the Cape, and possibly the winelands. From here we will go directly to St Helena, a British island in the South Atlantic. Cheers, Ellen and Seth </article> <article> <h1>Indian Ocean</h1> heretic — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 12:58:55 +0000 <meta http-equiv="CONTENT-TYPE" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" /><title /><meta name="GENERATOR" content="OpenOffice.org 2.0 (Win32)" /><meta name="AUTHOR" content="Seth Leonard" /><meta name="CREATED" content="20091107;3051200" /><meta name="CHANGEDBY" content="Seth Leonard" /><meta name="CHANGED" content="20091107;3493300" /><style>  </style> We are now tied to the wharf in Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius in the south Indian Ocean, 4000 miles west of Australia and several hundred east of Madagascar. We have been here two weeks, mostly involved in boat maintenance projects, including repairing our steering quadrant. We have also been able to catch up with Greg Carroll aboard Alpheratz. It’s great to see an old Blue Hill friend. We were able to leave Darwin soon after launching in early August, following our big projects in the boatyard. We had a dead calm for 6 days leaving Darwin, during which we drifted in the heat and watched the sea life. Big brown sea snakes floating on the surface were the most notable. When the wind finally picked up we made a fast passage to Ashmore Reef on the edge of the Australian continental shelf. There we were able to do a dive and lots of snorkeling as well as walking around the little sand cay there with the Customs officer to look for the tracks of turtles laying their eggs. From Ashmore Reef we had a quick passage the rest of the way to Cocos Keeling atoll, a low island group in the middle of the south Indian Ocean, 2000 nautical miles from Darwin. On that passage we saw spinner dolphins leap fully out of the water and spin around in our wake. The wind and seas were building considerably as we neared the island, but fortunately we made it into the anchorage at dusk right before it really picked up to about 35-45 knots. With our stop at Ashmore Reef, our passage from Darwin took 3 weeks. Cocos Keeling has an interesting history, first inhabited in 1826 by a Scottish man who set up a coconut plantation with laborers imported from different parts of Southeast Asia, mostly Java and the Malay peninsula. Another part of the atoll was developed in 1944 for an airfield for the Royal Air Force and that island continues to be inhabited today mainly by white Australians. Following UN inspections in 1984 conditions improved drastically for the Cocos Malays and the islanders voted to become part of Australia, which the island still is today. While we were in Cocos Keeling the weather was predominately rainy and windy, but we still managed to do a lot of snorkeling- the reef life is very nice inside the lagoon- and one dive on which we found several cannons from an 1825 shipwreck. We also did some sail repair and had work done on the transmission. We met quite a few other cruising boats on our route to Mauritius and South Africa, including some whom we have seen since we’ve been in Mauritius, including the British boat Oddity, the German boat Moony, and another Maine boat Bear. We also met a fascinating couple on the Australian boat Siandra who have since gone to Malaysia to leave the boat and do some inland travel in Nepal. We left Cocos Keeling September 22nd for the 2000 mile passage to Rodriguez, a dependency of Mauritius. The passage was uncomfortable with a big cross swell coming up from the Southern Ocean to compete with the swell created by the strong ESE trade winds. The weather was squally and overcast for the majority of the passage and we were happy to see the hills of Rodriguez come up from the horizon. The passage was, however, quite short due to the strong winds. We did the 2000 miles in 15 days. We had a wonderful time in Rodriguez, probably one of our favorite places on the trip. We tied Heretic to the wharf in the main town and could leave her unlocked without fear. The population is primarily French African Creole and amazingly friendly. We spent the first couple of days exploring Port Mathurin, the main town, and were thrilled to find the patisserie and the extensive Saturday vegetable market. We visited the giant tortoise reserve, a conservation project for tortoises from the Seychelles and Madagascar since the 2 species endemic to Rodriguez are extinct due to unsustainable exploitation by the first settlers in the 18th and 19th centuries. The reserve also breeds the Rodriguez fruit bat in captivity in case of depletion of its numbers in the wild, and it is trying to reinstate the vegetation native to the island. There is also an enormous cave that we explored in the reserve. We hiked all over the island, along the spectacular eastern shore where the wind and waves have made interesting limestone formations, through the cattle and goat pastures and up some of the hills to get panoramic views over the lagoon and the island’s valleys, and inland in the forests where we got a glimpse of the only two remaining endemic birds, the Rodriguez warbler and Rodriguez fody. (The island formerly had many endemic birds, including the flightless Solitaire, similar to the dodo of Mauritius.) We also did three excellent dives, two with beautiful coral formations and reef fish, and one through a series of six caves where we saw two crayfish over 3 feet long! We hope to explore Mauritius a little now that our boat projects are mostly complete, before heading on to Reunion, 120 miles from here. 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While we’ve enjoyed our time in Australia, we are excited to be heading west to Africa. Since we left Port Douglas in late May, we explored the Queensland coast and the Great Barrier Reef. Cooktown and Lizard Island were two of our favorite places along the way. Cooktown is a low key settlement with excellent museums describing the town’s history from 1770, when James Cook careened Endeavour there, through the gold rush of the 1870s, its use as a airstrip and hospital during the 1942 Battle of the Coral Sea, up to its present day tourist industry. Cooktown also has a number of beautiful hikes ringing the town. Over our four days there we hiked all of these, taking in the views down the coast and out to the reef from Mt Cook, two bays enclosed by rocky headlands, and the recently restored nineteenth century botanic gardens. Lizard Island was also a favorite for its hikes, which varied from mangrove boardwalks to panoramic views. The island is fringed with coral reef which made for excellent snorkeling; we saw everything from tiny anemone fish to enormous parrot fish and coral trout. We especially enjoyed hearing a talk given by the head scientist at the coral reef ecology research station, describing the research they do there, some of which dealt with increased water temperatures and acidification due to climate change. At Lizard Island we met up with many old friends whom we had met in the Pacific, including Reflections, Fast Forward, Papillon, Barbara Ann, Promessa, and Cheshire Cat, and made a number of new friends, including Sea Life, Helly, Cookie Cutter, Morning Star, and Thyme. The biggest highlight of our time at Lizard Island was our trip to Cod Hole, one of the renowned dive sites of the Great Barrier Reef. Seth, myself, and Eric and Ivonne off Morning Star joined Simon and Amanda on Thyme for the sail out there. The outer reef was an incredible sight with enormous coral bommies, several Napoleon wrasses and reef sharks, and best of all the potato cod, very friendly and very large (330 lbs) grouper who are so curious that they swim right up to scuba divers, so close you can pet them. From Lizard Island, we had a rather fast passage up to Cape York, the northernmost tip of Australia, stopping only once at the impressive red rock islands of the Flinders Group. From Seisia, a Torres Strait islander town on the west side of Cape York, we intended to make the passage to Darwin direct, but ended up stopping at the rather windswept Wessel Islands since we tore our no. 2 jib in the very choppy seas across the Gulf of Carpentaria. Once past the Wessels, the steep chop died down and we had a pleasant passage to Darwin, timing the tidal currents into the city well. Our time in Darwin has unfortunately been spent entirely in the boat yard. We hauled out the morning after we arrived, June 25, and spent close to five weeks on the hard. What we thought would be a quick haul-out for new bottom paint turned into a much bigger project when we found that the gel coat covering the fiberglass was blistering. Stripping the paint and preparing the surface was of course the big part; once it came to applying the paint, things went much faster. Consequently, what we have seen of the Northern Territory has not been the beautiful national parks for which it is known, but instead the industrial sections and strip malls of Darwin. We hope to depart in the early part of this coming week for our passage to Cocos Keeling, a coral atoll 2000 miles west of here. 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heretic — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 00:39:38 +0000

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